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Month: May 2016

Trogir in Croatia – 22nd May to 24th May 2016

Trogir in Croatia – 22nd May to 24th May 2016

Trogir was settled in prehistoric times and has buildings, inscriptions and artefacts from Greek and Roman occupations. It is a beautiful old town built on an island separated by a narrow isthmus from the mainland. We decided to moor on the town quay, despite the fact that the pilot book said it was only for much larger yachts but we were delighted to be greeted by the harbour master who was happy for us to stay, which was a definite result. We were yards from the centre of town which could be traversed in about 10 minutes – unless Jill and I found a jewellery shop to check out, which seemed to happen each time we ventured out.

11 - 2016 May - Trogir- 07The southern side of the island is protected by a fort which gave some great views of the town and over to Split in the distance.

11 - 2016 May - Trogir- 02Our first night we went to the restaurant called TRS which was highly recommended on Trip Advisor and which was an early birthday celebration for Mark’s big one at the end of the month – we weren’t disappointed.

11 - 2016 May - Trogir- 04aWe decided to relax in Trogir for a couple of days as this is the closest port to Split airport and Jill’s departure after 2 weeks on the boat – she has crossed 3 countries, endured 2 bumpy night sails and covered more miles than most sailors do in a couple of seasons, but Jill fitted in really well and was a pleasure to have on board. On the morning of her departure, the promenade was filled with hundreds of local school children (we think it was half term) having a water fight with squeezy bottles and water filled balloons all topped off with flour bombs and paper streamers – you cannot imagine the bedlam, but great fun …… unless of course you were the herd of 60 year olds trying to duck your way back to your ferry to take you back to the comfort and safety of your ocean liner. The madness dissipated in a flash as two chubby policemen slowly sauntered down the promenade after a couple of hours, but it was an interesting send off for Jill, who left for the airport after one final cold beer at lunch time.

We had hoped to leave Trogir today (Tuesday 24th May), but the weather is not ideal as rain showers all morning, so we are waiting to see if things improve. We only need a 3 hour window to start our trip south, stopping in Brac first – so weather permitting …..

 

Split in Croatia – 21st May to 22nd May 2016

Split in Croatia – 21st May to 22nd May 2016

We arrived at Split with great expectation: the harbour was a mass of activity, there were the usual mass of charter yachts and beautiful 80 ft plus wooden boats collecting there guests who would stay on board for a week and be transported from island to island – some on cycling tours (very popular here), dropping of at one end of an island and cycling to the other to reconnect with their boat. Also jockeying for moorings were ocean liners and even a sea plane taking tourists to far flung islands – very dramatic.

10 - 2016 May - Split- 05We had planned to moor on the town quay, but too shallow; too busy with tour boats and way too many tourists packing the promenade. Plan B, was to anchor in the harbour, again we decided against because of all the different crafts crisscrossing our potential resting place, could of made for a bumpy night. Plan C and last resort (due to all the charter yachts), was to return to the ACI marina that we had chartered from 9 years ago, so off we went, even returning to the pontoon which had so worried us the last time we had tried to moor in a force 7, in a gap only a few feet wider than our boat. This time, there was no wind and the mooring was uneventful, despite the same ridiculously small gap between the bows of the boats.

10 - 2016 May - Split- 01The marina was a distance from the city, so we walked around the edge of the harbour and into Split to give Hudson some exercise, and then meandered around the bustling narrow streets. Split is the second largest city in Croatia, centred on the Roman Palace of the Emperor Diocletian – all in remarkably good condition. In the centre of the palace was the church with a sunken square with steps surrounding it like an auditorium which the local restaurants had claimed as theirs for serving drinks – but which now offered the mass of tourists the opportunity to grandstand a bride and groom as they greeted and hugged ever single one of their guests as they left the church after their marital union.

10 - 2016 May - Split- 03.aJPGThe city emphasises the unspoilt nature of the whole of Croatia (at least the bit we have seen), it does not appear to have suffered from the developers trowel like Spain – It is very picturesque and they have done a great job of attracting tourists but this has meant that everything is quite expensive, especially if you are on a boat.

10 - 2016 May - Split- 04Despite all of the above, Split was a little disappointing, a little too big and too many people. After several hours touring the city, we returned to Hapatoni by water taxi and ate on board, looking forward to our next days trip to Trogir, yet another ancient and beautiful town on the coast of Croatia, leaving early to avoid the Charter boats.

Brac in Croatia – 19th May to 21st May 2016

Brac in Croatia – 19th May to 21st May 2016

By our guest blogger and great buddy Jill Wickenden – Sure enough we were one of the early birds to arrive in Brac and easily got a spot in the ACI Marina – however, as the day progressed and the charter boats started heading in on their final leg of their sailing holiday, the Marina started to fill up and boy did they pack them in, the gap  between the facing bows was in most instances less than 1/3 of a boat length, so there would be no chance for the early arrivals getting out before the later arrivals had gone – which was a source of some disappointment to our neighbours who were a group of Americans from Arkansas, on their annual sailing pilgrimage to the sun who were hoping to leave at 7:00 am the next day.

As we woke on Friday, we decided to avoid the potential chaos in the marina as the packed ranks of chartered boats attempted to leave and headed to the town quay for safety and an easy exit on Saturday.

09 - 2016 May - Milna - 02Friday was forecast to be a cloudy with showers, so we decided to check out the main town of Supetar, traversing the island on the local bus- which was surprisingly comfortable. The trip across was a great way to see inland and the small villages dotted around, although most of the villages were built around the coast – probably because it was the only areas that they could get flat enough land to build.  The island is incredibly rocky (Brac is famous for limestone) and barren – agriculture/farming does not appear to be a feature of their livelihood, with olives and lavendar being the only real produce that we could see that was grown in any quantity.  The town of Supetar was disappointing, it is really only a ferry port for arrivals from Split, so we had lunch and quickly headed back to Milna.

There were two key highlights of our visit to Brac, the first was our evening meal on Friday.  Having checked out Trip advisor we decided to walk around to the other Marina (just a mile away) and eat at a restaurant called Omo – we could easily have given up and eaten in one of the other many restaurants along the way as it was raining and dressed in cagoules and armed with umbrellas it did look a good alternative – but we stuck to our guns – and what a great decision.  Omo is run by a charming local fisherman, Luka, who not only catches the fish but also prepares and cooks the dishes served at his restaurant on a massive barbeque – we felt as though we were really going local.  We chose our fish – Scorpion fish, Squid (another key speciality in Croatia and should not be missed) and one of the local fish whose name we couldn’t pronounce, but looked a bit like a large sea bass.  Once the fish was ready, our waiter filleted the fish at the table and we tucked in – delicious fresh fish.  At the end of dinner Luka came over and poured a locally made (and potent) Limoncella followed by a couple of Grappa’s on the house.  The whole experience was fabulous and we would all highly recommend.

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09 - 2016 May - Milna - 05I mentioned that there were two highlights – many that know me, will know that I suffer from a curse inflicted on most women – the need to shop – There was a couple of little souvenir kiosks on the front one selling local olive oil, wine and various Grappa’s, the other selling local pottery made from local limestone.  So on Friday afternoon, Debs and I set out on a mission and decided to pool our desired purchases to get a combined ‘best price’ after a few phone calls and varying tactics we got 18% discount (much better than the 10% offered the previous day). I came away with three bowls and three rings all made from local limestone and Debs was the now the proud owner of large fruit bowl that Fred Flinstone would have proudly adorned his table with.  We also thought it rude not to sample the local Grappas on the next stall and Debs bought what can only be described as a ‘port’ substitute for Mark.

On Saturday morning, complete with new purchases and an amazing dining experience it was time to leave Brac and head over to split.

Hvar – Croatia – 18th May 2016

Hvar – Croatia – 18th May 2016

Following our morning shopping in Korcula, we left the ever so compact moorings at ACI marina (they do pack them in) and set sail to Hvar. We had to motor sail the 40 miles with the wind on our nose again. Hvar was chosen as it was on Jill’s “to visit” list and it is another beautiful historic town, plus the pilot book advised it was protected from strong SE winds which had been forecast for Thursday and possible F7/8 on the Friday. We arrived late in the afternoon, fingers crossed, hoping but not expecting to get a place on the town quay; we knew from the pilot book that the number of spaces was very limited. Luck was on our side, there was one space left, just the perfect size for Hapatoni.

Hvar is a picturesque and historic town, no vehicles are allowed in its streets and piazza, so all deliveries from the milk to holiday makers’ luggage is transported by golf buggy. The town quay is filled with bars and restaurants all along the front with yachts and ferries moored along the quay. It is a bustling town, again touristy but classy and clean. I can fully understand why it is so popular.

We took Hudson for a walk along the front, collected our boat documents from the office – they take your documents to the office and hold them to ransom until you pay in Croatia. We found the perfect spot in the sun, watching the activities and had some light refreshment. Our evening was relaxed as we had dinner on the boat, enjoying fresh garlic and chilli prawns, (which if I say so myself were scrumptious).

Thursday night was a bit noisy with the 8 young Germans, two yachts down, partying till four in the morning – ear plugs certainly helped. As they finally decided to go to bed, this was the queue for the yacht to start rocking, the strong winds had arrived and although the town quay was protected from the winds it was not protected from the swell caused by the wind. On returning from our morning run, we discovered that the large motor yacht which had been giving us some protection, was about to leave. Our decision to also leave was made when the boats started to really crunch into each other, our neighbours wire guard rail snapped like it was string, as his fenders got caught between our two boats. So Jill and my shopping day in Hvar went out the window. Instead we sailed the 10 miles in 23 – 25 knots of wind gusting to 28 on the nose (again) to Brac, in bumpy seas.

Sorry no photos on Hvar as only a brief visit.

Milna on Brac (pronounced Brach) is a very well protected inlet and close to Split, so it is on the flotillas route home (last stop before they return their hire boats at the end of the week) and many boats were heading for the same shelter. Mark made sure we were in the lead, as we sailed into Milna, the protection from the surrounding hills calmed the winds and seas and we all breathed a sigh of relief as we could now relax and settle here for a few days. Photo below is on the bay of Brac.

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Next country, Croatia here we come – 16th May 2016

Next country, Croatia here we come – 16th May 2016

The Overnight sail – We left Brindisi around 9.30am expecting a Force 4/5 in the morning calming to a mere 2/3 for the remainder of the trip, however the forecast did not play out, with the wind on the nose and a choppy sea, the passage was bumpy and slower than planned. The wind was cold and at night time as the temperature dropped further my woolly hat had to come out plus a thermal vest and five layers of clothing.

Mark and I followed the same shift patterns with me choosing the 11-2am shift. For me the overnight sail was ok, but cold, at least no boats were out to attack me this time, it was pretty quiet so I was able to read a bit to pass the time, otherwise the 3 hours alone in the cold can drag. So 167 miles and 25 hours later, we arrived in Croatia. We selected the island of Kocula as our entry point into Croatia and we were not disappointed, the marina is right next to the old town which is a small circular peninsular protected by a wall which juts out into the sea, the view was stunning. We moored up as instructed outside the Croatian authorities buildings and then visited the Port office, the Police, then Customs, and it has to be in that specific order. Entry paperwork completed and £200 poorer we were now legal and moored up in the marina and relaxed.

06 - 2016 May - To Croatia- 13Korcula in Croatia – 17th May to 18th May 2016

We stayed at the ACI marina (about £56 per night), which is next to the old town and a great location.  The marina is small and out of all the visiting yachts we were the only privately owned yacht, they are all hire boats and they ram them into the marina. Getting out can be a bit tight as the gap between the yachts opposite is minimal, and many of the hire yachts seem to have inexperienced skippers (I am being polite).

06 - 2016 May - To Croatia- 16The historic town of Korcula, with its narrow streets, hidden shops, old walls and buildings, is serviced well by bars and restaurants, and although it is focused on the tourist industry, it is done with taste and beautifully maintained, very clean and charming. On our first afternoon in Korcula, we all headed into the town but after Jill and I had stopped at two shops (lots of jewellery shops), Mark lost the will to live, so following a short fluid refill headed back to the boat for a nap. Jill and I explored every street and shop, finishing off overlooking the bay with a glass of wine.

06 - 2016 May - To Croatia- 19Being our first night in Croatia, we ventured out for supper, finding a quaint restaurant on the back streets, and decided to sit at one of the outside tables in the narrow street which was barely 6 foot wide but allowed you to really soak up the atmosphere. Mark had the local fish platter, which was locally caught fish that the waiter described as so numerous that they were catchable by a 2 year old – maybe Mark should move from tuna to the local fish we might then catch our dinerJ, Jill had Saltimbocca and I had the meat platter all washed down with a glass or two of the local wine.

06 - 2016 May - To Croatia- 20The next morning I headed over to the local supermarket but the flotillas had got there first, the stock piles of water and beer had disappeared from the shelves (surprise surprise) and most of the fresh food. I was hoping to buy some of their local prawns for supper but they were sold out. Luckily we left it a couple of hours and headed back to find the delivery boat had arrived and my prawns plus beautiful fresh fruits were all available. So an hour later we were stocked up, looking forward to a strawberry smoothy for breakfast. With the boat re-stocked we prepared for departure, onto the next Island, Hvar we come.

The Sail to Italy – Gaios to Brindisi in Italy 13th May to 14th May 2016

The Sail to Italy – Gaios to Brindisi in Italy 13th May to 14th May 2016

Today is the start of our 24 hour passage from Greece to Italy. Unlike previous night sails we decide to leave a little later at around 10:00am, not wishing to arrive in Italy in the early hours. So we leisurely get up and prepare the boat for the passage, sandwiches are made and a hot chilli is ready prepared for the evening meal. As we head away from Greece, the sea is a little lumpy, with the wind as ever on the nose giving us a side to side and back and forward motion combining to make us all a little queasy. Our early evening excitement was the scream of the fishing reel as one of the deeps hunters (aka Mr Tuna) took the fluorescent squid like bait and tried to head back to Greece at extreme speed, unfortunately after an all too short battle: it spat out the hook and evaded the frying pan. We witnessed a beautiful sunset a stunning finish to the day.

06 - 2016 May - To Croatia- 01Over night the wind retreats and the seas flatten which would have made for a comfortable sleep, if it hadn’t been for the tankers and fishing trawlers who all took aim at us as we neared the coast of Italy and just as I came on shift.  As Brindisi came into view in the early daylight hours, we got our first sighting of this historic and ancient town, being greeted by the oil refinery and massive industrial complexes surrounding the entrance to the harbour – not living up to our expectations so far.

Brindisi in Italy 14th May to 16th May 2016

From Guest Blogger Jill – At 5.30am we arrive into Brindisi and head to the marina only to be greeted to a ‘no possible’ – so we return to the town quay and moor up next to boats that appear to be uninhabited!  I was fortunate enough to have slept through the high activity of the night before, and now was time for Mark and Debs to get some well earned rest.  Once the day began we were slightly disconcerted that we were facing a row of ‘burger vans’ and wondering what the day would bring (more of that later).

The front was quite windy but once inside the walls of Brindisi it was hot – we wandered for a while stopping for the obligatory fresh orange juice/coffee before returning to the boat.

05 - 2016 May - Brindisi - 04Mark identified a few restaurants for dinner on Saturday night and Debs and I kindly offered to do a recky and check each one out (really looking to shop in Italy).  Much to the girls disappointment all shops shut at 13.00 – WHAT!!!!!  So after a really exciting trip to the supermarket, restaurant chosen – Debs and I consoled ourselves about the lack of shopping with a couple of glasses of wine.

05 - 2016 May - Brindisi - 02

The town of Brindisi came to life after 20.00 and the promenade was bustling with people, street performers, music and that is when the burger vans opposite the boat came to life – and stayed alive well into Sunday (earplugs needed).

Sunday was a damp and slow day and we were ready to leave Brindisi – excited about what lay ahead (although another 24 hour sail sat between us and Croatia). On Monday 16th – lunch prepped and dinner cooked – we were ready for sail ………….

Giaos (Part 2) with Wickers 10th May 2016 to 13th May

Giaos (Part 2) with Wickers 10th May 2016 to 13th May

Wickers Arrives 10th May 2016

02 - 2016 May - Gaios - 06Aboard the maiden trip of the latest Corfu to Paxos ferry, Jill arrives to a fanfare with champagne smashed on the anchor in her honour, we like to think – although the owner did drop the first bottle of champagne in the sea, what a waste. The first day gave Jill the opportunity to unpack, settle in and explore Giaos in beautiful sunshine. Finishing off the evening at a local restaurant, where we all had suckling pig roasted slowly on a spit, it was absolutely delicious and so juicy. They gave us so much that we had plenty left over to take home for Hudson. Yesterday we hired a small motor boat, which handled very neatly getting up on to the plain very easily, skimming over the unbelievably clear seas as we headed for our first stop at Lakka in the North of the island and then onwards to the small island of Anti Paxos, a couple of km south of the main island of Paxos.

03 - 2016 May - Paxos - 03It was great fun, and such a different way for us to spend the day. Jill got to see the stunning bay of Lakka which is definitely one of our favourite stops in the Ionian, where we indulged in a bit of retail therapy followed by a delicious meze lunch sitting in a restaurant on the town quay – the inconspicuous bustle of early season cleaning and painting preparations going on all around us. We tried some new local dishes, stuffed Aubergine rolls along side the classics of calamari and garlic king prawns and probably too many other dishes – well we are on holiday. After a leisurely lunch we continued our trip around the mountainous westerly side of Paxos, pock marked with caves into which we inquisitively poked the bow of our little boat. Then, on to Anti Paxos, the smallest of the inhabited Ionian Islands, only two square miles and with a population pending seasons between 20 and 60. It is famous for its Greek wine, sandy beaches and stunningly translucent turquoise and indigo waters, the ideal place for a swim. Mark and Jill both went swimming, sorry to say I was a coward as it’s still too cold for me. Jill was hoping to make a graceful entry into the water, but thanks to me forgetting to put the ladder down properly, Jill catapulted head first in with a tangle of arms and legs instead. Hudson went manic as they both jumped in and ran round and round the boat watching and barking incessantly at them, we thought for a time he was going to jump in after them, but he is more of a coward than I am.

03 - 2016 May - Paxos - 08

Today is a complete contrast; with a day of showers, some heavy rain, thunder and strong winds. Luckily the forecast is only for a 24 hour period then the sun returns. Even in these conditions, two girls can always find something to do – shopping (……….again) the perfect solution, with a stop for freshly squeezed orange juice. With jewellery purchased we spend the afternoon snug below decks being rocked by the waves.

Gaios on the Island of Paxos 6th May to 10th May 2016

Gaios on the Island of Paxos 6th May to 10th May 2016

6th – 9th May – The Clark’s

We set sail from Preveza for Paxos at 8 am, we were lucky to have a couple of hours of wind as it channelled down the valley between the mountains near Preveza, but unfortunately as we moved along the coast the wind died and the forecast reigned (forecast F2/3). As we headed round the coastline into Giaos town we were quite surprised as the town quay was empty, only one yacht was moored up, such a contrast to last summer, but the advantages of being May. As the day passed a few more yachts joined the party, but it still remained very quiet and peaceful.

Sitting on the back of the boat on a sunny Monday (currently 26*c), life is pretty good. We both now feel relaxed, the important jobs are all done. The last job for Mark was to mod the bed – not what you’re thinking!!!  When we left the UK we bought a custom mattress, the weight of which is the same as two elephants, which makes it quite difficult to lift, and as the fuel cut-off and fuel tanks are below the bed, it is quite important to have easy access. So to Mark’s rescue came his Dremel power tool, the bed still weighs a lot, but after a bit of careful sanding, the bed glides up and down and Mark can now quit his Russian weight lifting exercises.

Mark is playing his guitar to Hudson and I and the neighbours are claiming to “enjoy” his strumming – they are a couple of Germans who Mark has tried to communicate with, but their English is quite limited, so they could well be pleading for him to take up the harmonica for all we know.

IMG_0830aWe are developing a little routine in Gaios with the odd morning run (Mark still moans), the challenge here is half the run is up hill and it is a killer. With all the lovely fresh fruit about we are taking full advantage and concocting delicious smoothies – enormous mangos at a reasonable price, juicy strawberries and pineapple, but not all together.  Chores are quickly despatched in the morning and we are then free to do our hobbies or just chill. Mark is strumming or practising his French, I read one of my many historical novels, and at some point Hudson will get a walk or two around the village ending up with a beer and a bit of people watching. Gaios is such a pretty little town, unspoilt with charming little streets full of local shops.

IMG_0838.aJPGThis morning we moved the boat from side-on to stern mooring, as although there is plenty of room; Hudson barks at anyone walking near the boat and he can jump off and fraternise with the many local cats and dogs, all of which roam freely. I did my first stern mooring of the season, it took a few attempts to get the boat lined up and was a bit nervous as I forgot all I knew from last season, but with perseverance and our new remote anchor gadget all went well in the end.  Life is now easier for Hudson as he can roam about without us having to worry as we raise the drawbridge so he can not jump off.

Tomorrow Jill arrives at the boat, she flies into Corfu this afternoon and is staying the night in a local hotel ready to get the early ferry over to Paxos (1 hour away), where we are awaiting her arrival with excitement.

Mark has planned our trip with Jill as we need to be in Split in Croatia for the 22nd May for Jill to fly home. On review the distance was a bit further than we realised (a bit of a challenge), so we will have to do two big hops to make the trip and miss out Montenegro but still 3 countries is not bad going and that gives us a few days relaxing on Paxos in Giaos and Lakka, then two days in Italy with a few days to sail around Croatia, all pending the weather of course.

Wickers Arrives 10th May 2016 TBC

The New Season Begins: Sunny Preveza Preparing Hapatoni

The New Season Begins: Sunny Preveza Preparing Hapatoni


Preveza – 27th April – 5th May 2016

Following a long cold and wet winter, and much preparation (Mark constantly buying boat items on the web, new gadgets and “essentials” arriving in the post daily), we finally left for Athens on 27th April 2016 with so much luggage; 4 large and heavy bags, 1 dog cage and a dog. The facilities at the new Heathrow Terminal 2 were brilliant, very clean and efficient, we moved through the terminal to our departure gate with ease and no queues, and Hudson was treated like royalty – oh and he didn’t really leave on the conveyor belt, although it did make for a funny picture and caption on Facebook. The flight in the cargo hold was a little traumatic for him, he unfortunately peed in the cage, he is a much better sailor than he is a flier. However the hand over at the luggage claim went well, although disappointingly he did not arrive on the belt with the bags, but on a trolley behind a Greek cargo handler. The reunion was greeted by the usual flurry of excited  barking for several minutes as Hudson was reunited with his family.

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The 250 kilos of luggage filled the hire car to bursting, the Astra with its lawnmower engine seemed to go backwards when we were driving uphill. After a 5 hour drive through the night we arrived just after midnight in Cleopatra Marina on the opposite shore to Preveza town.
As the sun rose the next morning, we noticed that there were distinct signs of life, there were  people about working on their boats and the local taverna and marina bar were now open, which is in sharp contrast to the deserted place we found when we last came out to check on the boat in January. Life picked up daily as new people arrived and boats went back in the water, we planned  to stay on  board Hapatoni while she was out of the water for a few days, which was quite challenging especially getting Hudson up and down; we had, to our Austrian neighbours  amusement, been hosting him up and down by his life jacket. He got used to it and it was so much easier than carrying him up.

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Whilst we had the hire car we stocked up on heavy supplies, 400 Euros later, and what felt like a hundred trips up and down the ladder the boat is stocked and now weighs at least a couple of tons more.

The plan was to have the boat anti fouled by the marina, and then Mark had a very long list of jobs to do from servicing the engine, polishing the hull, fixing the toilet, etc, etc, etc – and sorting a very very stubborn and completely stuck seacock – most of these tasks needed  to be done before we went back in the water on the 5th May, however some could wait till after we had moved over to the nearby marina on the opposite side of the river in the middle of the town of Preveza.

The days passed in a flash, I have been trying to be healthy by starting with a morning run, dodging the local cows, which Hudson likes to bark at as they just roam the area freely. It is so nice to be back at the boat and in the sun (well most days), I have even been wearing SHORTS and a T-SHIRT in the day and it’s been between 20 degC – 25 degC so far. We have had a few thunder storms in the last few days, mainly in the evenings and overnight, Hudson is funny as he does not like the thunder, the other night he came running into our room begging to sleep on the bed.

We have been enjoying the lovely Greek food, fresh tasty salads and those famous massive pork chops.

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4th May 2016 – A New Sailing Season Begins

We went  back in the water after an early lift (boat number 2) and after making sure we were not going to sink, we headed straight over to Preveza marina. Our timing was perfect as just as we finished mooring up the heavens opened up and we got a few flashes of lightening. Although we had a mixed day of weather with rain showers and sunshine, we were able to put the main sail on and complete our allotted tasks, finishing off with a walk around the town and the usual stop on the way home in a local bar, but only because we needed the WiFi (that’s our excuse).

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 We plan to set sail to Giaos on the beautiful island of Paxos (The home of olives) on Friday 6th May, it is a 6 hour, 36 mile sail up the coast, a couple of miles south of Corfu.

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